Few final notes on the Highclere 115. Couple of other guys I know also did the ride, both in fact had it a lot harder than I as they ended up doing almost all of it solo. Ian, to whom many thanks for putting me onto the event in the first place, had the worst luck of all as had to battle with punctures and downpours, his musings on the ride can be found via his "Pedalling My Thoughts" blog (see sidebar link). Olly from the bike shop I met last night and he made it round in just under 9 hours.
Results of the ride are now up.
Highclere 115 Results
I ended up 14th out of 284 which leaves me gobsmacked. Reflecting on this it probably makes it the second or third most distinquished sporting performance of my life. (Undoubted first being scoring my only 2 goals in competitive football in the same match, both being crackers from outside the box, which earned our team its only point of the season. Second/third is getting ready for a swimming race and realising the guy in the next lane was Olympic bronze and multi other competition medal winning Brian Brinkley (He beat me)). Does leave me a slight problem of where do I go from here, which I will go some way to finding out when I do another sportive on 10th September and revisit the hell of the SPAM the week after.
Wednesday, August 23, 2006
Monday, August 21, 2006
Massage or a Breakfast Butty? The agonies of choice.
or
Post script to Highclere. At the end of the event I was presented with a very difficult choice. The organisers had arranged for some volunteer ladies skilled in the art of massage to minister to the limbs of the riders in various stages of distress. Cost for this relief (to go to Fireservice Benevolence charity) was a mere fiver. I was sorely tempted to take advantage of this service and even joined the queue.
However at that point the sweet smells of a fry-up wafted their way across the field. As if drawn by a magnet I quit my waiting and followed my nose to the van where the smell was coming from. There I learned that for £4.30 I could have a breakfast bap (bacon, fried egg and sausage) plus a cup of tea.
Due to fears of downpours I had only brought one fiver with me, not wishing to risk more getting dampened beyond use. What to do? I could, for the first time in my life and with a completely clear conscience (it was for charity after all), enjoy a massage. However my stomach was growling at me, "need food, need grease". Also at the back of my mind was a Mrs Miff with a rolling pin, not quite understanding how getting my legs fondled by beautiful young ladies was in the interests of firemens charity (unless of course it was the firemen themselves at the receiving end).
So in the end I opted for the breakfast in a bap. I must say it tasted very nice.
Next time though think I will risk taking a tenner with me.....
Sunday, August 20, 2006
Highclere Happiness - Blowing my own trumpet
Somewhat tired. Very happy. Just come back from completing the South Downs challenge a.k.a. the Highclere 115.
The Map
The Route Profile
Had been v. nervous about this because never done a "cyclosportive" event before but in fact it went fine after the first mile. First mile was bit of a disaster as somehow I ended up at the front of my group, came to the first bend, saw the marshal waving, lost concentration and before I knew it my head was hitting the tarmac. Luckily my sunglasses absorbed the impact though I left one bit of them behind as a remounted, somewhat in shock and had a hard ride to rejoin the group.
After that though all was pretty good. My start group happened to have some good riders in it and we stormed along overtaking loads of people. (Glad to report I did my bit at the front.) Unfortunately one guy punctured and his team-mates stopped to help him so our group cut down to two and then just me.
Nonetheless made it to the first check point in just over 2 hours, averaging almost 20mph, which put me well on course for my target time of 6hr55mins. Second leg is a bugger, all up and down and, today against the wind. I set of alone and did not really get into any group throughout this stage until caught up by some fast bods 10km from the next checkpoint. They stopped to refuel, I pushed on and made good time hooking up with a couple of people along the way. At the 140km stage though I was getting tired and very happy to be overtaken by the fast bods train which I latched onto. The drag up to the final hills was into the wind again but even so we averaged 30kph.
Just before the final hard climbs I dropped off the group. It was mission accomplished in terms of getting my target time as I had only 20km to go and an hour and 20 mins to do it in. The fast bods were obviously fitter than me and I was worried if I tried to keep up with them I might overdo it and crack. So I took things as easy as is possible over the climbs and got to back to Highclere safe and sound.
My end time was 6 hours 22 mins, comfortably inside gold standard for aging hippies and even a gold for young whippersnappers and 15th overall (at the moment). I looked to be the 3rd or 4th 40-49er. (The first 50-59er was 17mins behind so I have a future challenge).
Very very happy with this....
The Map
The Route Profile
Had been v. nervous about this because never done a "cyclosportive" event before but in fact it went fine after the first mile. First mile was bit of a disaster as somehow I ended up at the front of my group, came to the first bend, saw the marshal waving, lost concentration and before I knew it my head was hitting the tarmac. Luckily my sunglasses absorbed the impact though I left one bit of them behind as a remounted, somewhat in shock and had a hard ride to rejoin the group.
After that though all was pretty good. My start group happened to have some good riders in it and we stormed along overtaking loads of people. (Glad to report I did my bit at the front.) Unfortunately one guy punctured and his team-mates stopped to help him so our group cut down to two and then just me.
Nonetheless made it to the first check point in just over 2 hours, averaging almost 20mph, which put me well on course for my target time of 6hr55mins. Second leg is a bugger, all up and down and, today against the wind. I set of alone and did not really get into any group throughout this stage until caught up by some fast bods 10km from the next checkpoint. They stopped to refuel, I pushed on and made good time hooking up with a couple of people along the way. At the 140km stage though I was getting tired and very happy to be overtaken by the fast bods train which I latched onto. The drag up to the final hills was into the wind again but even so we averaged 30kph.
Just before the final hard climbs I dropped off the group. It was mission accomplished in terms of getting my target time as I had only 20km to go and an hour and 20 mins to do it in. The fast bods were obviously fitter than me and I was worried if I tried to keep up with them I might overdo it and crack. So I took things as easy as is possible over the climbs and got to back to Highclere safe and sound.
My end time was 6 hours 22 mins, comfortably inside gold standard for aging hippies and even a gold for young whippersnappers and 15th overall (at the moment). I looked to be the 3rd or 4th 40-49er. (The first 50-59er was 17mins behind so I have a future challenge).
Very very happy with this....
Thursday, August 17, 2006
TDF Journal Day 8 Sunday 28th May Beauvais>Cormeilles Sun's Out!
Distance 145k
Time 6:37
Climb 853
Weather Sun(:)) & wind
Woke up and headed down for petit dejeuner. The illusion that I was in a home rather than hotel continued as I found I was the only guest and I effectively had breakfast with the family, including their toddler son who played cars under my table.
Following the lull yesterday, Sunday would be no day of rest with a 150K or so planned, including crossing the Seine. I was not sure which route the Tour was going to be taking out of Beauvais. This was because the detailed route the tour takes each year is a closely guarded secret. The main route and "Villes d'etape" are published with a fanfare around October time, but exactly how the riders will get from start to finish (Beauvais to Caen in this case) is not revealed until the June edition of the Velo magazine hits the newstands. When I left the UK I had expected to be able to pick up a copy on my arrival in France, since in the UK magazines usually appear a full month ahead of their cover date. However the French are obviously more literally minded than us Brits and so the Velo was due to appear on 1st June and not one day before.
So I had to guess the route, which meant when I missed my first turning just a couple of km out of Beauvais I did not get too stressed and just took the next turning to get me back on track. Happily on the weather side things were looking up. For the first time since day 1 I was able to start pedalling without first donning my Pack a Mac. The sun was visible and the wind, though still blowing, was doing so with less gusto on previous days.
The route was pretty flat and enjoyable. It being a Sunday other cyclists were also out and about. I played catch up and pass with an older cyclist, who, when I stopped 20 or so minutes later for a quick natural break stopped to ask me where I was heading and gave me some route advice.
I crossed the Seine just south of Rouen, the approach being along its banks via the D92 which took me through some very nice villages. One of the good things about France is that their approach to building houses means they are all different, and this road was a good example of this with lots of variations on the comfortable family house, one even resembling a mini-castle.
Once over the Seine the road passed quickly by and I decided to stay at Cormeille in the Auberge de President, named after President Reny Coty (1954-59) ate there (and if good enough for the president of France should be good enough for me.)
Auberge de President
I telephoned ahead to book a room and when I arrived I was very happy with my choice. Cormeilles is a beautiful Normandy village full of old timbered houses of many different colours, the hotel, in pale blue, being one of the best examples. A marriage was just coming to an end when I turned up but nonetheless the manageress found time to show me to my room and a place to stow my bike. The room was newly decorated but in a rustic style and very welcoming. I also had a large bath and plenty of bubble bath so I indulged in a wallow. It was not late so I set off for a wander round the town, taking a beer at a local bar whilst trying not to look English by reading L'Equipe and the local papers.
(Cormeilles websites)
http://www.office-tourisme-cormeilles.com/index.php
http://ecoles.ac-rouen.fr/freneuse27/morainville/cormeille.html
In fact I need not have worried too much about appearing a tourist. In the first place the town was obviously used to having the English come over and settle, the estate agents mostly boasted of "English spoken", looking at the prices of house I could see the attraction. For the price of a 3 bed semi in Newbury you could buy a big detached house with huge grounds near Cormeille. What's more, as I read the local paper, the folk in Normandy were getting worried about how the number of English visitors was dropping off, due to the weather and cheap flights luring us to the warmer climes further south.
I strolled back to the hotel, taking note of a shop to get some croissants in the morning. At the hotel I had a truly superb meal, cooked in the local style so calvodos, apples or cider figured in most of the dishes. Being greedy I asked for both the cheese and dessert courses and polished off a couple of bottles of cider (when in Normandy...).
All in all a very good day, the best of my trip so far. The only very minor problem was my arms were a bit sunburnt, a quite tolerable alternative to the frostbite they had suffered only a couple of days earlier.
Time 6:37
Climb 853
Weather Sun(:)) & wind
Woke up and headed down for petit dejeuner. The illusion that I was in a home rather than hotel continued as I found I was the only guest and I effectively had breakfast with the family, including their toddler son who played cars under my table.
Following the lull yesterday, Sunday would be no day of rest with a 150K or so planned, including crossing the Seine. I was not sure which route the Tour was going to be taking out of Beauvais. This was because the detailed route the tour takes each year is a closely guarded secret. The main route and "Villes d'etape" are published with a fanfare around October time, but exactly how the riders will get from start to finish (Beauvais to Caen in this case) is not revealed until the June edition of the Velo magazine hits the newstands. When I left the UK I had expected to be able to pick up a copy on my arrival in France, since in the UK magazines usually appear a full month ahead of their cover date. However the French are obviously more literally minded than us Brits and so the Velo was due to appear on 1st June and not one day before.
So I had to guess the route, which meant when I missed my first turning just a couple of km out of Beauvais I did not get too stressed and just took the next turning to get me back on track. Happily on the weather side things were looking up. For the first time since day 1 I was able to start pedalling without first donning my Pack a Mac. The sun was visible and the wind, though still blowing, was doing so with less gusto on previous days.
The route was pretty flat and enjoyable. It being a Sunday other cyclists were also out and about. I played catch up and pass with an older cyclist, who, when I stopped 20 or so minutes later for a quick natural break stopped to ask me where I was heading and gave me some route advice.
I crossed the Seine just south of Rouen, the approach being along its banks via the D92 which took me through some very nice villages. One of the good things about France is that their approach to building houses means they are all different, and this road was a good example of this with lots of variations on the comfortable family house, one even resembling a mini-castle.
Once over the Seine the road passed quickly by and I decided to stay at Cormeille in the Auberge de President, named after President Reny Coty (1954-59) ate there (and if good enough for the president of France should be good enough for me.)
Auberge de President
I telephoned ahead to book a room and when I arrived I was very happy with my choice. Cormeilles is a beautiful Normandy village full of old timbered houses of many different colours, the hotel, in pale blue, being one of the best examples. A marriage was just coming to an end when I turned up but nonetheless the manageress found time to show me to my room and a place to stow my bike. The room was newly decorated but in a rustic style and very welcoming. I also had a large bath and plenty of bubble bath so I indulged in a wallow. It was not late so I set off for a wander round the town, taking a beer at a local bar whilst trying not to look English by reading L'Equipe and the local papers.
(Cormeilles websites)
http://www.office-tourisme-cormeilles.com/index.php
http://ecoles.ac-rouen.fr/freneuse27/morainville/cormeille.html
In fact I need not have worried too much about appearing a tourist. In the first place the town was obviously used to having the English come over and settle, the estate agents mostly boasted of "English spoken", looking at the prices of house I could see the attraction. For the price of a 3 bed semi in Newbury you could buy a big detached house with huge grounds near Cormeille. What's more, as I read the local paper, the folk in Normandy were getting worried about how the number of English visitors was dropping off, due to the weather and cheap flights luring us to the warmer climes further south.
I strolled back to the hotel, taking note of a shop to get some croissants in the morning. At the hotel I had a truly superb meal, cooked in the local style so calvodos, apples or cider figured in most of the dishes. Being greedy I asked for both the cheese and dessert courses and polished off a couple of bottles of cider (when in Normandy...).
All in all a very good day, the best of my trip so far. The only very minor problem was my arms were a bit sunburnt, a quite tolerable alternative to the frostbite they had suffered only a couple of days earlier.
Tuesday, August 15, 2006
TDF Journal Day 7 Saturday 27th May Montdidier >Beauvais - Taking it easy
Distance 49k
Time 2:55
Climb 261
Weather Grey and windy
This was a different day. After a week of struggling against the elements I had finally come to my first "rest" day. I had planned only short rides for these days, just enough to stop me stiffening up and hopefully let my body recover a bit.
So I had a lie in and a leisurely breakfast. When I headed out of the hotel the skies were grey and the wind was blowing. However it did not look as if rain was threatening. My destination for the night was Beauvais, start town for the TDF stage 5. This was only 50km or so to cover in the day, which was by a comfortable margin the shortest distance I had cycled. As the wind was still quite fresh I decided to head cross country to take advantage of the cover that the little lanes provided. This was a good plan and the ride was very enjoyable, if not very challenging compared to previous days.
Beauvais (French)
Beauvais (English)
I had booked a hotel in advance, the "Residence" in Beauvais. This was a bit of a strange place as it was located (appropriately given its name) in a very quiet residential neighbourhood about 10 minutes walk from the town centre. You needed to look twice at it to realise it was a hotel rather than another house and this illusion was continued when I was greeted at the door by a toddler, son of the owners.
While stowing my bike away in the garage I found my first equipment failure of the trip. One of my padlocks had seized up, it was hanging under my saddle and had caught the brunt of all the crud thrown up by the rear wheel as I pedalled through the rain. A fair amount of brute force let me get it off but it was broken beyond repair so I consigned it to the bin. I did not mind too much, in practice I had not yet come across any occasion when I thought my bike was in any danger of being stolen, so I was frankly glad to drop some unwanted weight.
I showered, changed and set of on my first bit of real tourism of my tour. Beauvais wasn't a bad town for this, being not too big, with a picturesque cathedral (pics below) and pleasant central square. I stopped by one of the cafes and was very happy to be able to sit outside as the grey clouds parted and I felt the first real strong sunshine since my first day.
I passed my time happily relaxing and reading my "History of the World". As the afternoon turned to evening however I was beginning to feel quite peckish and went in search of a restaurant. I was a little early but had the good luck to stumble upon a fantastic bar "Le Mine". This boasted of having a large range of bottled and draft beers. I ordered a half of Goudale (which sort of felt English "Good Ale") and was told that it was happy hour so I could have a full pint if I wished (yes pint. Despite being in France, originator and home of the metric system some traditions live on. So you can order a pint of beer (or a metre just to make things really confusing!)). I considered this offer long and hard, on the one hand free beer was available. On the other Good Ale is 7.2degrees so a pint could have a pretty heavy effect on an empty stomach. So reluctantly, and very possibly for the first time in my life, I turned down the offer of a free beer.
La Mine Website
This said I made up for it by having a pint of the brun by which time the restaurants were starting to open. I made for an Italian as I wanted to get some stodge inside me. It did not seem particularly special but I was lucky to get there early as within 20 minutes it was full. I had a pasta followed by pizza (the joys of cycling!) along with a carafe of red.
Rather fuller and a bit tipsy I headed back to the hotel.
PS Photo of the day the tour left town (more on the website)
Time 2:55
Climb 261
Weather Grey and windy
This was a different day. After a week of struggling against the elements I had finally come to my first "rest" day. I had planned only short rides for these days, just enough to stop me stiffening up and hopefully let my body recover a bit.
So I had a lie in and a leisurely breakfast. When I headed out of the hotel the skies were grey and the wind was blowing. However it did not look as if rain was threatening. My destination for the night was Beauvais, start town for the TDF stage 5. This was only 50km or so to cover in the day, which was by a comfortable margin the shortest distance I had cycled. As the wind was still quite fresh I decided to head cross country to take advantage of the cover that the little lanes provided. This was a good plan and the ride was very enjoyable, if not very challenging compared to previous days.
Beauvais (French)
Beauvais (English)
I had booked a hotel in advance, the "Residence" in Beauvais. This was a bit of a strange place as it was located (appropriately given its name) in a very quiet residential neighbourhood about 10 minutes walk from the town centre. You needed to look twice at it to realise it was a hotel rather than another house and this illusion was continued when I was greeted at the door by a toddler, son of the owners.
While stowing my bike away in the garage I found my first equipment failure of the trip. One of my padlocks had seized up, it was hanging under my saddle and had caught the brunt of all the crud thrown up by the rear wheel as I pedalled through the rain. A fair amount of brute force let me get it off but it was broken beyond repair so I consigned it to the bin. I did not mind too much, in practice I had not yet come across any occasion when I thought my bike was in any danger of being stolen, so I was frankly glad to drop some unwanted weight.
I showered, changed and set of on my first bit of real tourism of my tour. Beauvais wasn't a bad town for this, being not too big, with a picturesque cathedral (pics below) and pleasant central square. I stopped by one of the cafes and was very happy to be able to sit outside as the grey clouds parted and I felt the first real strong sunshine since my first day.
I passed my time happily relaxing and reading my "History of the World". As the afternoon turned to evening however I was beginning to feel quite peckish and went in search of a restaurant. I was a little early but had the good luck to stumble upon a fantastic bar "Le Mine". This boasted of having a large range of bottled and draft beers. I ordered a half of Goudale (which sort of felt English "Good Ale") and was told that it was happy hour so I could have a full pint if I wished (yes pint. Despite being in France, originator and home of the metric system some traditions live on. So you can order a pint of beer (or a metre just to make things really confusing!)). I considered this offer long and hard, on the one hand free beer was available. On the other Good Ale is 7.2degrees so a pint could have a pretty heavy effect on an empty stomach. So reluctantly, and very possibly for the first time in my life, I turned down the offer of a free beer.
La Mine Website
This said I made up for it by having a pint of the brun by which time the restaurants were starting to open. I made for an Italian as I wanted to get some stodge inside me. It did not seem particularly special but I was lucky to get there early as within 20 minutes it was full. I had a pasta followed by pizza (the joys of cycling!) along with a carafe of red.
Rather fuller and a bit tipsy I headed back to the hotel.
PS Photo of the day the tour left town (more on the website)
Come blow you winds....
Post script to my ride on Saturday.
I thought I had left the winds behind my when I finished my ride, however I was slightly wrong. As mentioned one purpose of the trip had been to check out the cereal bars I planned to take along. These seemed to work fine regarding keeping me going on the road but then seemed to work overtime and kept me going through the night and the following day! Poor old Mrs Miff had to issue a gale warning as the bed clothes were almost blown off.
Hurricane has since subsided but looking at cycle forum see I am not alone in suffering these side effects
http://www.cyclingplus.co.uk/forum/topic
I thought I had left the winds behind my when I finished my ride, however I was slightly wrong. As mentioned one purpose of the trip had been to check out the cereal bars I planned to take along. These seemed to work fine regarding keeping me going on the road but then seemed to work overtime and kept me going through the night and the following day! Poor old Mrs Miff had to issue a gale warning as the bed clothes were almost blown off.
Hurricane has since subsided but looking at cycle forum see I am not alone in suffering these side effects
http://www.cyclingplus.co.uk/forum/topic
Sunday, August 13, 2006
Highclere Recce 2 - Windy but fast enough (just)
The route of the Highclere run I will be doing next week has been published, along with the "gold" standard for vets of my age of 6 hours 55 minutes (equivalent to 27kph) As mentioned in previous post this looks doable but only just.
So yesterday I tried doing the full route as a test both of my speed and provisioning. I bought a "Camelback" which I filled with water and took 2 bidons with LucoSport. I also packed 12 or so grain bars (Jordans etc.) after reading that the first Brit to finish the Etape swears by them for long rides.
All went pretty well. I punctured but discounting that managed a pretty good average speed of 31 up to the first checkpoint at Petersfield. I find the next stretch across to Mottisfont the hardest, especially the first half as it is all up and down and this saw my average go down to 29. Nonetheless I was able to hold up and push over the final climbs just within the time limit.
I was pretty pleased with this as there was quite a wind blowing which may have given me some help on the first bit but was straight into my face coming home. On the day itself I guess we will form into groups so speeds should go up. Hope so in any case...
Wednesday, August 09, 2006
TDF Journal Day 6 Friday 26th May Nouvion to Montdidier Blown Away
Distance 112k
Time 6:00
Climb 418
Weather Gale force winds
Yet again I got up, looked out of the window and was greeting by grey drizzle. I ate breakfast and headed out of Nouvion, with the wind blowing hard into my face.
After a couple of hours, when the only event of any interest was passing a large Nestle factory in the middle of nowhere, the rain finally relented. I didn't know it at the time but this was the end of the regular drenchings I was going to get.
Given the headwinds I made reasonable time to St Quentin, the finish of the tour's stage 4. The start at Huy yesterday seemed like an age ago.
St Quentin - the smiling town
St Quentin is a town that has personal memories for me, since it is the first French town I can remember staying in. As a child every other year we would visit Switzerland, home to my dads family. Back then these trips were major events, since it was rare for anyone to leave the sanctuary of the British Isle. The road network was nowhere near as developed as today so the journey to/from Switzerland would take a good two days. My first recollection of actually being in France was when we had a stopover at St Quentin, where I remember my dad ordering "escargots" and being amazed when snails turned up at our table and even more amazed when my dad ate them.
Now, returning some 40+ years later, there was not much sign that St Quentin was celebrating the arrival of the tour but looking at the web site later it seems they certainly made up for this when the big day arrived, living up to their claim of being the "town that smiles"
I stopped at a bar/resaurant for a typical French workers lunch. For 12 euros I got a three course meal, with steak as main course, along with some wine and coffee. Very nice, very cheap.
I had another gap d'etape to cover, this one being 100km.My destination was Montdidier and I had planned what seemed to be a pretty straightforward route to get to it, via some friendly looking yellow D roads.
I set off, happy to find that getting through St Quentin was pretty easy given its size. Once I left the shelter of the town, however, I found that the D roads were a bit less friendly than I thought, being wide, straight, rolling and full of traffic. To add to my woes the headwind had got worse and was blowing straight down the road into my face. Making progress was very difficult. For the first time in my cycling life I was actually glad when I was overtaken by an HGV, since in the turbulence of its wake the wind lessened a bit and I could make headway. These respites though were brief and it was proving heavy going. I got a third of my way towards Montdidier and decided a plan B was called for. I headed off the D road across country zig-zagging along quiet country lanes, always heading in the general direction of Montdidier. This route was longer than the original but a lot easier. I passed through any number of tiny villages, wondering how on earth they all kept going but glad they did.
Finally, after covering nearly twice as much distance as originally planned I reached Montdidier. I had booked a hotel in advance but did not know where exactly it was. This proved to be a potential problem as the main street of the town was near vertical. I sped down it desparately looking from side to side, ready to effect an emergency stop. Luckily when I got to the bottom my hotel loomed ahead. Just a luckily the signpost for my direction out of town the next morning was clearly visible and pointing in the opposite direction from the hill I had just come down and therefore would not have to go up again tomorrow.
Montdidier+baby?
I was knackered. I was nearly at the end of my first week of my tour and it had proved hard work with most every day being a battle against wind, rain or, mostly, both. Fortunately my intention had always been to have one day of rest each week and tomorrow, Saturday, was to be the first of these. So I cleaned up and had my second steak of the day in the restaurant. The manager of the hotel stopped by the table for a quick chat, strangely the thing he seemed most keen to impress on me was the fact that my room had electric window shutters, which true enough it had, so I used them and had a good and well earned nights sleep.
Time 6:00
Climb 418
Weather Gale force winds
Yet again I got up, looked out of the window and was greeting by grey drizzle. I ate breakfast and headed out of Nouvion, with the wind blowing hard into my face.
After a couple of hours, when the only event of any interest was passing a large Nestle factory in the middle of nowhere, the rain finally relented. I didn't know it at the time but this was the end of the regular drenchings I was going to get.
Given the headwinds I made reasonable time to St Quentin, the finish of the tour's stage 4. The start at Huy yesterday seemed like an age ago.
St Quentin - the smiling town
St Quentin is a town that has personal memories for me, since it is the first French town I can remember staying in. As a child every other year we would visit Switzerland, home to my dads family. Back then these trips were major events, since it was rare for anyone to leave the sanctuary of the British Isle. The road network was nowhere near as developed as today so the journey to/from Switzerland would take a good two days. My first recollection of actually being in France was when we had a stopover at St Quentin, where I remember my dad ordering "escargots" and being amazed when snails turned up at our table and even more amazed when my dad ate them.
Now, returning some 40+ years later, there was not much sign that St Quentin was celebrating the arrival of the tour but looking at the web site later it seems they certainly made up for this when the big day arrived, living up to their claim of being the "town that smiles"
I stopped at a bar/resaurant for a typical French workers lunch. For 12 euros I got a three course meal, with steak as main course, along with some wine and coffee. Very nice, very cheap.
I had another gap d'etape to cover, this one being 100km.My destination was Montdidier and I had planned what seemed to be a pretty straightforward route to get to it, via some friendly looking yellow D roads.
I set off, happy to find that getting through St Quentin was pretty easy given its size. Once I left the shelter of the town, however, I found that the D roads were a bit less friendly than I thought, being wide, straight, rolling and full of traffic. To add to my woes the headwind had got worse and was blowing straight down the road into my face. Making progress was very difficult. For the first time in my cycling life I was actually glad when I was overtaken by an HGV, since in the turbulence of its wake the wind lessened a bit and I could make headway. These respites though were brief and it was proving heavy going. I got a third of my way towards Montdidier and decided a plan B was called for. I headed off the D road across country zig-zagging along quiet country lanes, always heading in the general direction of Montdidier. This route was longer than the original but a lot easier. I passed through any number of tiny villages, wondering how on earth they all kept going but glad they did.
Finally, after covering nearly twice as much distance as originally planned I reached Montdidier. I had booked a hotel in advance but did not know where exactly it was. This proved to be a potential problem as the main street of the town was near vertical. I sped down it desparately looking from side to side, ready to effect an emergency stop. Luckily when I got to the bottom my hotel loomed ahead. Just a luckily the signpost for my direction out of town the next morning was clearly visible and pointing in the opposite direction from the hill I had just come down and therefore would not have to go up again tomorrow.
Montdidier+baby?
I was knackered. I was nearly at the end of my first week of my tour and it had proved hard work with most every day being a battle against wind, rain or, mostly, both. Fortunately my intention had always been to have one day of rest each week and tomorrow, Saturday, was to be the first of these. So I cleaned up and had my second steak of the day in the restaurant. The manager of the hotel stopped by the table for a quick chat, strangely the thing he seemed most keen to impress on me was the fact that my room had electric window shutters, which true enough it had, so I used them and had a good and well earned nights sleep.
Going for Gold?
I have received the latest news about the South Downs challenge that is now looming on the horizon, only a couple of weekends away. Aka the "Highclere Hundred" it has now lengthened to become the "Highclere 115" partly on account of avoiding the nasty last turn up West Woodhay down.
Included in the news are the standards for the race. This sets a challenge of completing the course in 6hrs 55mins to get a "gold".
Highclere 100 standards
This puts me in a bit of a dilemma. I am looking forward to the day but not sure how competitive I want it to be. The gold standard looks very doable as it requires an AVS of 27kph which I am pretty sure I am up to. But it will be a bit of a downer if I go for it and miss. May be more fun just to amble around enjoying the ride, countryside and company. Think will decide on the day....
Monday, August 07, 2006
First Sunday Club run
Went on first Sunday club run with Newbury RC. Very enjoyable but still getting used to riding etiquette, as not sure when it is OK to push ahead and when to hold back. Still sure will get used to it in time.
Tuesday, August 01, 2006
TDF Journal Day 4 Wednesday 24th May Eupen to Huy Wind, Wind, Fing Wind
Distance 136k
Time 6:23
Climb 618m
Weather Windy all the way
Had a pleasant surprise on leaving the hotel. Firstly I found my missing Alien next to my bike. Then just as I was leaving a girl came up to me with my compass saying "I guess this must be yours?". So all present and correct again.
I set off from Eupen heading due north, happy that this was going to be the day when I was due to make a turn south and west, so hopefully towards warmer and drier climes.
All the water I had been drenched with must have got to my brain as I took a number of unplanned detours but I found my way back onto my route without too much difficulty. My navigation was helped by the strong wind that was getting stronger all the time and rather worringly coming from the direction I would be heading in the afternoon. For the time being though I knew if I was being blown over sideways into the hedgerows I was heading in the right direction.
Eventually I came to a long straight road that ran along a hill running north-south. It reminded me of the Hogs Back coming out of Guildford and similar to that road had some great views, which I tired to appreciate when I wasn't in danger of being blown off the hill and into the valley. It was along this road that I had my first encounter with another guy on a racing bike. I didn't know he was there until he whizzed by me, but once he was ahead I gave chase. He was doing a fair lick but eventually I caught up, which then gave the dilemma of whether to overtake him or stay behind, using him as a windbreak. I was still dithering when he solved my dilemma by turning off my road.
Very shortly after this I crossed the border into Holland. I followed a lovely "green" route along a river to the outskirts of Valkenburg, then cycled along the flat straight road into the town itself. It was around lunchtime so I stopped at a pub. Rather bizarrely the only food on offer was cake, so I had a couple of helping of this with beer accompanyment.
http://www.valkenburg.nl/
The official route into Valkenburg:
Some Valkenburg TDF history:
Having reached Valkenburg I was now faced with the first of my "gap Etape"s. These are the gaps that need to be covered when the tour finishes at one town and starts at another. I faced a number of these, the longest being the one from L'Orient in Brittany down to Bordeaux at 565km. The one from the end of stage 2 at Valkenburg to Huy, back in Belgium, for the start of stage 3 was only a paltry 70km.
I did my best to make this a bit longer by heading the wrong way out of Valkenburg. Once I realised my mistake I decided to make the most of it by taking a look at Maastricht, a town (in)famous in the UK for having an EU treaty named after it but about which I knew nothing. It proved a pleasant surprise. First thing of note were the plentiful cycle lanes. The outside of the town was full of nondescript new buildings but at its heart was a lovely old town centre, reserved for pedestrians and bikes only. The only drawback was that it was cobbled which, despite my bike being a Roubaix, meant a rather shaky ride. However I was glad I passed by.
Maastricht:
Maastricht info:
http://www.vvvmaastricht.nl/index2.php3
Heading out of Maastricht I crossed back into Belgium and once again had to contend with its road system. I had planned on using a "yellow" road but on seeing it was the same as the dreaded N676 decided against and risked a red alternative. This was better in that it had a cycle lane but was made difficult by running through wide open, flat farmland where the wind that was now quite vicious whipped dust and dirt straight into my face. Just to wind me up the cycle lane also had some huge holes dug into it. These seemed to be some sort of roadwork but there was no sign of any roadworkmen and whenever I came across one I had to dismount and push my bike round it.
All in all this made for hard going, the harder because I knew this wasn't really a part of the tour proper.
My first view of Huy (except that when I was there the skies were grey...)
Eventually I reached the outskirts of Huy. I had not booked a hotel in advance because I thought that if Huy was a ville d'etape it was bound to have plenty of hotels. However as I rolled down the banks of the River Meuse on which the town sits my heart started to sink a little, especially as the skies opened to give me my first soaking of the day just 5km from the end of my days riding. I took shelter under a bridge, restarting once the rain had changed to drizzle. I passed one hotel but that seemed to be in the middle of an industrial area so gave it a miss and headed for town centre.
There I could see no sign of hotels. Bemused I asked a local if there were any hotels nearby and found there was just one (Hotel du Fort), which eventually I tracked down. I got a friendly welcome and after depositing my bike in the garage and drying myself off headed into Huy for a meal.
While waliking into town I saw a sign saying that Huy would be welcoming the Tour de France but was also on the route of the Giro (Tour of Italy). Strangely this turned out to be true. And I thought I had got lost from time to time!
Huy seemed to be as lacking in restaurants as hotels. I ended up in an Irish pub, of which there seems to be at least one in every town in the world. (Strange because when I lived in France back in the early 1990s this was very much not the case, in fact one of the highlights of a trip back to the UK was a pint of Guiness.)
Maybe the hotels/restaurants had all been scared off by the nuclear power plant, that was, literally, a couple of miles down the river from Huy town centre.
Belgiums nuclear power stations. The Tirhange station is on the river Meuse right next to Huy:
Huy Links:
http://www.huy.be/
http://www.eupedia.com/belgium/huy.shtml
Time 6:23
Climb 618m
Weather Windy all the way
Had a pleasant surprise on leaving the hotel. Firstly I found my missing Alien next to my bike. Then just as I was leaving a girl came up to me with my compass saying "I guess this must be yours?". So all present and correct again.
I set off from Eupen heading due north, happy that this was going to be the day when I was due to make a turn south and west, so hopefully towards warmer and drier climes.
All the water I had been drenched with must have got to my brain as I took a number of unplanned detours but I found my way back onto my route without too much difficulty. My navigation was helped by the strong wind that was getting stronger all the time and rather worringly coming from the direction I would be heading in the afternoon. For the time being though I knew if I was being blown over sideways into the hedgerows I was heading in the right direction.
Eventually I came to a long straight road that ran along a hill running north-south. It reminded me of the Hogs Back coming out of Guildford and similar to that road had some great views, which I tired to appreciate when I wasn't in danger of being blown off the hill and into the valley. It was along this road that I had my first encounter with another guy on a racing bike. I didn't know he was there until he whizzed by me, but once he was ahead I gave chase. He was doing a fair lick but eventually I caught up, which then gave the dilemma of whether to overtake him or stay behind, using him as a windbreak. I was still dithering when he solved my dilemma by turning off my road.
Very shortly after this I crossed the border into Holland. I followed a lovely "green" route along a river to the outskirts of Valkenburg, then cycled along the flat straight road into the town itself. It was around lunchtime so I stopped at a pub. Rather bizarrely the only food on offer was cake, so I had a couple of helping of this with beer accompanyment.
http://www.valkenburg.nl/
The official route into Valkenburg:
Some Valkenburg TDF history:
Having reached Valkenburg I was now faced with the first of my "gap Etape"s. These are the gaps that need to be covered when the tour finishes at one town and starts at another. I faced a number of these, the longest being the one from L'Orient in Brittany down to Bordeaux at 565km. The one from the end of stage 2 at Valkenburg to Huy, back in Belgium, for the start of stage 3 was only a paltry 70km.
I did my best to make this a bit longer by heading the wrong way out of Valkenburg. Once I realised my mistake I decided to make the most of it by taking a look at Maastricht, a town (in)famous in the UK for having an EU treaty named after it but about which I knew nothing. It proved a pleasant surprise. First thing of note were the plentiful cycle lanes. The outside of the town was full of nondescript new buildings but at its heart was a lovely old town centre, reserved for pedestrians and bikes only. The only drawback was that it was cobbled which, despite my bike being a Roubaix, meant a rather shaky ride. However I was glad I passed by.
Maastricht:
Maastricht info:
http://www.vvvmaastricht.nl/index2.php3
Heading out of Maastricht I crossed back into Belgium and once again had to contend with its road system. I had planned on using a "yellow" road but on seeing it was the same as the dreaded N676 decided against and risked a red alternative. This was better in that it had a cycle lane but was made difficult by running through wide open, flat farmland where the wind that was now quite vicious whipped dust and dirt straight into my face. Just to wind me up the cycle lane also had some huge holes dug into it. These seemed to be some sort of roadwork but there was no sign of any roadworkmen and whenever I came across one I had to dismount and push my bike round it.
All in all this made for hard going, the harder because I knew this wasn't really a part of the tour proper.
My first view of Huy (except that when I was there the skies were grey...)
Eventually I reached the outskirts of Huy. I had not booked a hotel in advance because I thought that if Huy was a ville d'etape it was bound to have plenty of hotels. However as I rolled down the banks of the River Meuse on which the town sits my heart started to sink a little, especially as the skies opened to give me my first soaking of the day just 5km from the end of my days riding. I took shelter under a bridge, restarting once the rain had changed to drizzle. I passed one hotel but that seemed to be in the middle of an industrial area so gave it a miss and headed for town centre.
There I could see no sign of hotels. Bemused I asked a local if there were any hotels nearby and found there was just one (Hotel du Fort), which eventually I tracked down. I got a friendly welcome and after depositing my bike in the garage and drying myself off headed into Huy for a meal.
While waliking into town I saw a sign saying that Huy would be welcoming the Tour de France but was also on the route of the Giro (Tour of Italy). Strangely this turned out to be true. And I thought I had got lost from time to time!
Huy seemed to be as lacking in restaurants as hotels. I ended up in an Irish pub, of which there seems to be at least one in every town in the world. (Strange because when I lived in France back in the early 1990s this was very much not the case, in fact one of the highlights of a trip back to the UK was a pint of Guiness.)
Maybe the hotels/restaurants had all been scared off by the nuclear power plant, that was, literally, a couple of miles down the river from Huy town centre.
Belgiums nuclear power stations. The Tirhange station is on the river Meuse right next to Huy:
Huy Links:
http://www.huy.be/
http://www.eupedia.com/belgium/huy.shtml
Monday, July 31, 2006
TDF Journal Day 3 Tuesday 23rd May Arlon to Eupen: Hail and Hills
Distance 142k
Time 6 hours
Climb 1950m
Weather Wet and windy
I woke up with a slightly sore head but this soon cleared when I get outside and into the wind which had freshened up considerably since the day before.
Fortunately I found a route which took me round the large hill I had to go up yesterday and headed off back into Luxembourg. The day's route took me south to north through the middle of Luxembourg then back into Belgium. With the wind, rain and unfamiliar terrain I was not sure how far I would get so I set off, with the intention of seeing how I would get on and think about booking a hotel at lunch time.
The morning went well, though I found Luxembourg is quite hilly. I stopped at Wiltz for a snack lunch and gave Mrs M a call and asked her to see if she could find a hotel in Belgium just past the border.
I started off again and pretty much as soon as I had turned the pedal it started raining. This marked the beginning of an afternoon of showers/alternating with sun, with the wind blowing all the time.
Sometimes it got a little more interesting as the showers turned into downpours. This reached a crescendo as I headed down a hill, ironically just after passing a cafe but deciding not to stop. The sky went from light to dark in a few seconds and a huge wind whipped up the hill making progress, even with the aid of gravity, almost impossible. Then it started to hail and the road turned into an ice rink. Luckily there was another cafe at the bottom of the hill. Not so luckily it was shut. So I cowered under a tree at the front, feeling miserable and eating my emergency banana.
After 15 minutes or so the storm passed over and I continued on my way, eventually leaving Luxembourg to get back into Belgium.
Not long after I came across a significant problem in route. I use Michelin maps and on these yellow roads are often a good choice for the cyclist making long journeys each day, as being a balance of not too much traffic but reasonably direct and with good road surface. So I chose these in preference in Belgium as well.
This proved a mistake, as the yellow roads in Belgium actually had a lot of traffic (I guess because the country is so much more crowded) and appalling road surfaces.
The worst was the N676 from St-Vith to Amel. This is narrow, but with lots of HGVs passing every 15 seconds or so. It seems to be constructed of massive oblongs of concrete about 10 m long, laid end to end like a row of dominos. The concrete surface is rough and slippy when wet, but worse each junction between blocks makes bikes without mountain tyres jump and shake like mad. I had planned to cover 15km on the N676. I did 2 and was as scared as I have ever been riding a cycle anywhere. I stopped and quickly re-plotted my route to go across country and was very pleased I did as not only was there almost no traffic at all but the countryside was very much more picturesque.
My route eventually took me to Robertville, which seems a like a nice holiday resort.
http://www.robertville.be/
I stopped there for a drink and was informed by Mrs M that she had found me a Best Western hotel to the north in Eupen. This did not seem like too far on the map, it meant going by a main road (the N68). This proved to be fine, however what I did not realise was that I was heading into the Eifel mountains, so had a way to go up before arriving at my hotel.
http://www.naturpark-hohesvenn-eifel.de/fr/die6landschaften/hocheifel/index.php
Also, inevitably it seemed, it had started to rain. Again.
I was feeling a bit tired as I headed up hill and also, as my clothes began to get wetter and wetter through a combination of rain and perspiration, I started get colder and colder. Fortunately the road was wide enough to avoid the splashes and most of the spray caused by the occasional car that passed me.
It seemed a long way to get to the top of the climb around Mt Rigi but after that things got a lot quicker as the road started going downhill and I had built up a real head of steam as I tanked down the road to Eupen. The hotel was easy to find, right at the entrance of the town at the bottom of the hill I was speeding down.
http://catalogue.horse21.co.uk/belgium+hotels/eupen+hotels/best+western+ambassador+hotel+bosten
I parked up and went in. I was dripping wet but the manager was very welcoming, showing me a place to park my bike for the night and telling me that I had been upgraded to a bigger room (Mrs M must have done some sweet talking).
The best thing about the super room was the big warm bath. I washed away the day's grime and warmed myself up. The hotel was proud of its restaurant (as you can see below) so I dined there and had a thoroughly good meal. My only concern was that I seemed to have lost my Alien and compass. (My Alien being a handy multi-tool, a sort of Swiss army penknife for cyclists). Still that would have to wait until tomorrow.
Sunday, July 30, 2006
47 and breaking 20
Blowing my own trumpet I know but today I achieved a lifetime best by averaging over 20mph for a serious ride for the first time. This was done on a circuit I know well from Newbury to Lambourn then Wantage and back to Newbury again. This takes in the downs so has a few climbs (some with bits over 10%), the hardest being the ones coming out of Wantage back to Newbury. All in all the route is 47 miles with 680m climbing.
Back in January I rode this and averaged 15.9mph. Pre riding the TDF I had got this average up to 16.8. I rode the route following my return from the TDF and surprised myself by averaging 20mph up to the bottom of the final Wantage hills and ended up with 19.3. Today I finally pushed past 20 (just) making it round and back to Newbury at 20.1mph. Main reasons for making this were I think pushing myself a bit harder and also using a 11-23 cassette which let me get bit more speed up on the downhill parts of the course.
So pretty chuffed with myself.
Back in January I rode this and averaged 15.9mph. Pre riding the TDF I had got this average up to 16.8. I rode the route following my return from the TDF and surprised myself by averaging 20mph up to the bottom of the final Wantage hills and ended up with 19.3. Today I finally pushed past 20 (just) making it round and back to Newbury at 20.1mph. Main reasons for making this were I think pushing myself a bit harder and also using a 11-23 cassette which let me get bit more speed up on the downhill parts of the course.
So pretty chuffed with myself.
Friday, July 28, 2006
Give a man a tool - the joys of bike maintenance
One of the good things about returning to bikes as a forty something is that it gives me the chance to get my hands oily again.
Way back, when I had a mini I used to attempt most of its servicing/fault fixing. I even attended an evening course on car maintenance, the highlight of which was taking an engine to pieces (easy), putting it back together again (a bit harder) with no pieces left over (the tricky bit).
I must admit this was only with partial success and the occasional cockup. The most extravagant of these was a simple error of forgetting to close the bonnet properly after an oil change. This resulted in the bonnet popping up when we were doing 60, briefly obscuring all vision before coming off its hinges and flying over the roof. Fortunately nobody was behind us to be decapitated and a temporay fix with gaffer tape was applied.
(PS: this was in the early days of me courting Mrs M. I must say she reacted very calmy to this minor calamity as she did when she enquired regarding the state of the mini's body work "are you meant to be able to see the road through the floor of the car?")
Next car after the mini was a Ford Capri 2.8i and this very quickly got me to the point where the car's sophistication soon exceeded my capabilties and I fell into the clutches of the local garage.
(the next car we had/still have was a Toyata Previa. I have had this 16 years and not even seen the engine!!! (it is a mid engined car and it is under the seats)).
This meant that my rather lovely set of tools remained unused (slightly sad story regards these, I got these cheap via a woman who had brought them for her husband as a gift before he told her he wanted a divorce. You have to think if only she had given them to him earlier...)
But now I have bike I can dust my wrenches off and start to use them again. A bike is perfect, it is simple, even for a klutz like me, nothing can go too badly wrong even if you do cock it up and best of all it has no electrical system. (Another memory from my car mechanic days was the smoke pouring out of the car's dash when I put in a new stereo and mixed up a couple of wires...).
Also it has lots of special bolts & bits which in turn need special tools. And there is nothing to make a man happier than when he has a new tool to play with.
Way back, when I had a mini I used to attempt most of its servicing/fault fixing. I even attended an evening course on car maintenance, the highlight of which was taking an engine to pieces (easy), putting it back together again (a bit harder) with no pieces left over (the tricky bit).
I must admit this was only with partial success and the occasional cockup. The most extravagant of these was a simple error of forgetting to close the bonnet properly after an oil change. This resulted in the bonnet popping up when we were doing 60, briefly obscuring all vision before coming off its hinges and flying over the roof. Fortunately nobody was behind us to be decapitated and a temporay fix with gaffer tape was applied.
(PS: this was in the early days of me courting Mrs M. I must say she reacted very calmy to this minor calamity as she did when she enquired regarding the state of the mini's body work "are you meant to be able to see the road through the floor of the car?")
Next car after the mini was a Ford Capri 2.8i and this very quickly got me to the point where the car's sophistication soon exceeded my capabilties and I fell into the clutches of the local garage.
(the next car we had/still have was a Toyata Previa. I have had this 16 years and not even seen the engine!!! (it is a mid engined car and it is under the seats)).
This meant that my rather lovely set of tools remained unused (slightly sad story regards these, I got these cheap via a woman who had brought them for her husband as a gift before he told her he wanted a divorce. You have to think if only she had given them to him earlier...)
But now I have bike I can dust my wrenches off and start to use them again. A bike is perfect, it is simple, even for a klutz like me, nothing can go too badly wrong even if you do cock it up and best of all it has no electrical system. (Another memory from my car mechanic days was the smoke pouring out of the car's dash when I put in a new stereo and mixed up a couple of wires...).
Also it has lots of special bolts & bits which in turn need special tools. And there is nothing to make a man happier than when he has a new tool to play with.
Bad noise from down under - bottom bracket expired
Went for, now becoming regular, training ride on Tuesday and found bike was making very depressing noises when being pedalled at anything more than very light load.
Consensus from those who know a whole lot more about these things than I was that I was having bottom bracket problems. This was interesting as, my ignorance of bike topography being what it is, until it started making a racket I did not even know I had a bottom bracket.
Anyway this provided the chance of getting my hands oily and so took spanner to bike. I discovered that I have a rather special bottom bracket (or BB as I now know to call it) as I have a FSA SLK crank. This is a rather nifty design that has an integrated, oversized BB called a MegaExo http://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=product&taxid=21&pid=434
This needed a special tool (as ever) to detach from the bike so I paid a quick visit to AW Cycles at Reading about who I had heard good things http://www.awcycles.co.uk/
They had the tool I needed (Park Tools BBT-9 for anyone interested) and also it must be said a rather spiffing range of bikes, including a candidate for blingest bike - a limited edition Giant with 24 carat gold plating (not sure how weight saving this is!)
http://www.awcycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b8s6p1289
Consensus from those who know a whole lot more about these things than I was that I was having bottom bracket problems. This was interesting as, my ignorance of bike topography being what it is, until it started making a racket I did not even know I had a bottom bracket.
Anyway this provided the chance of getting my hands oily and so took spanner to bike. I discovered that I have a rather special bottom bracket (or BB as I now know to call it) as I have a FSA SLK crank. This is a rather nifty design that has an integrated, oversized BB called a MegaExo http://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=product&taxid=21&pid=434
This needed a special tool (as ever) to detach from the bike so I paid a quick visit to AW Cycles at Reading about who I had heard good things http://www.awcycles.co.uk/
They had the tool I needed (Park Tools BBT-9 for anyone interested) and also it must be said a rather spiffing range of bikes, including a candidate for blingest bike - a limited edition Giant with 24 carat gold plating (not sure how weight saving this is!)
http://www.awcycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b8s6p1289
This is available for only £4450...I resisted the chance to buy it but did succumb to the rather more modest temptation of a new pair of Look cleats and covers.
Back to the bike last night I used the new tool to remove brackets and sure enough they were rather grotty inside. I put this down to combination of bad weather in France and me, not knowing it was meant to be sealed, copiously oiling.
Fortunately FSA have a super now MegaExo which is "ceramic".
http://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=product&taxid=29&pid=759
Being a bit of a sucker for new fangled goodies I have ordered one of these and hope it arrives in time for me to fit and try out next Tuesday. Watch this space
Saturday, July 15, 2006
TDF Journal: Day 2 Mon. 22/05 St Avold>Arlon Three countries tour (not planned)
Distance 134k
Time 6 hours
Climb 903 m (mostly at end)
Weather Grey then wet
Alsace and Lorraine are two regions of France that have been joined at the hip through the centuries, often sharing a troubled history as a battleground and prize for France and Germany. However despite of this shared past the two regions feel different. When you think of Alsace the thoughts are of wine, the Rhine, delightful cities like Strasbourg and Colmar and equally delightful villages like those that linked by the "route du vin". Lorraine on the other hand is a region of heavy industry and coal mines. Put another way Alsace is light and sunny, Lorraine dark and dour.
Waking up on Monday I find that the weather had conformed to this stereotype, the sun of yesterday (from which I was even suffering a bit of sunburn) has all gone and the skies are grey.
By the time I have breakfast and set off a steady drizzle had started. The impression of gloom is reinforced by the long drag uphill, out of town, along a busy lorry filled dual carriageway past, first, the US military cemetery and then a large (and smelly) chemical factory. I am glad to get off the main road and back onto my preplanned route, but only relatively. The skies are dark and grey and the drizzle is turning into steady rain. I stop at a boulangerie to get some croissants and a couple of slices of "quiche lorraine" (natch) that I intend to have later for lunch. (Following the mistake yesterday I intend to make lunches a bit lighter in future.)
I press on, to add to my woes a wind has started, at least it is blowing across me but it means that as well as feeling wet I now start feeling colder. The countryside is not very encouraging, everywhere pretty much looks like everywhere else and none of it is especially picturesque.
After a couple of hours of this I have had enough. All this water has triggered a need to take a break for a call of nature. It being Monday and the villages I pass through being small and apparently deserted, no welcoming bar appears so I stop at a bus shelter, nip behind a bush, then gloomily eat my croissants and quiche.
Someone upstairs must have taken pity on me because by the time I had finished the rain had pretty much stopped and, if the sun was not shining, at least it was slightly less grey.
I set off again and decided to head straight for the Luxembourg border which I crossed just after Mondorf les Bains. There is a noticeable change, while Lorraine felt slightly run down and depressed, Luxembourg felt prosperous, evidenced by the smart houses and smooth wide roads with pristine cycle lanes. This further helps to lift my mood and I decide to press on a bit and go on past my intended overnight stop at Esch. This proves to be a bit risky as the various villages I pass through all seem noticeably lacking in hotels or anywhere else to stay. Also my meticulous advance planning did not include hotels in Luxembourg. Getting a bit desperate I stop at a Hobscheid, a small village, and go into a bank. I ask the lady there if there are any hotels nearby and she is very helpful, lifting my spirits by saying yes there is one just up the road.
Up in this sense is quite literal. The village was on the side of a steep hill which is hard going. But I finally get to the top. The directions I had been given say just go along the road and you can't miss the hotel. So I speed off down the other side of the hill at a rate of knots but then start to get a little concerned as the directions also said that the hotel is only a five or so kilometres away and I have already done nearly ten. So I stop again, this time outside a house and ask a man gardening if he knows of a hotel nearby. He speaks perfect English and says yes there is a hotel and he points back in the direction I have just come, back up the hill I have just happily sped down. Rather less happily I slog back up it and at the top spot a turning that I missed first time.
This goes back downhill and at the bottom I find not one but two hotels. I stop at the first, it looks quite posh so I get take off my bike gear to look a bit more presentable. The hotel seems deserted, but when I go inside and ask for a room I hear that it is full. (Hopefully it really was, thinking about it later maybe I just looked a bit too shabby...). So I ask about the hotel next door and get told that one is closed. I am starting to get a bit desperate now and ask if there are any other hotels nearby. The reply is that I will have to go to Belgium! Fortunately that is not far only another five kilometers or so. Bad news is that it is up another steep hill. So up I go again. Immediately after the top of the hill I just manage to spot a sign that say "Hotel" and points off down a road. It's downhill so I take it and, voila, find a lovely hotel. Only problem is despite ringing on the bell no-one appears. I get worried it too may be closed and as a last resort try phoning the number on the board outside. A lady answers and I ask if they have a room. She says yes, just one remains and asks when I will arrive. I reply just outside and she comes and lets me in.
I have landed on my feet, the hotel is very comfortable and has a superb restaurant.
http://www.peiffeschof.be/
I celebrate my good luck and the fact that I have cycled through three countries in a single day by drinking (slightly too much) Luxembourg champagne (well cremant actually) to wash down a thoroughly good meal.
South Downs Challenge Recce
One of the many joys of cycling is finding new routes to follow. And they don't need to be a million miles from home either.
I have entered for the South Downs Challenge, a 110 mile circuit starting/finishing Highclere Castle http://www.cyclegb.co.uk/southdowns.asp
So today, with the weather being so good, I decided to do a reconnaissance ride to take a look at the course, since I am familiar with the end but not the rest of the course.
The ride was a delight, taking me into Hampshire and along many roads, all new. You pass through a number of villages, full of thatched cottages and looking like picture postcards. And to complete the perfect image of a fine English summer's day I passed 4 games of cricket.
(Some early pictures (not taken by me but from the web site)
The pubs along the route looked very inviting as well. Today I was a bit pressed for time so did not take the opportunity to combine my ride with a bit of beer tasting but will tackle the ride again on coming weekends, in smaller chunks, and be sure to include time in the schedule for a pint (or two).
Just a few of comments on the route>> South Downs Route Map
I don't have a map for the bottom right bit (finishing at Petersfield), so cut a corner, heading south from Gundleton, through Cheriton and picking up the route at Stony Hard farm (great name). But still clocked up 158km in total (including ride from home to/from Highclere). Most of the route is pretty easy to follow, albeit with a number of stops to check map/directions, did miss one right hand turn after Micheldever Station to West Stratton and also only got through Michelmersh more by good luck than judgement.
Overall the trickiest thing about the route is, as you would expect, that there is little that is flat, most of the time you are going up or down, not usually very far in either direction but it does get tiring after a while.
The last couple of climbs are the hardest. Just before the final one (the "scorpion" in the route description) there is, as the directions say, an "acute right turn". This does not do the turn justice given the approach is at 13% down hill. The turn is not cute at all it is downright nasty and just to make it a little bit worse there is a big pothole in the middle of it as well. Hopefully that will be filled before the day.
The scorpions sting is a little less venomous than the route directions say, its maximum gradient is 11% and it only lasts 600m or so. The climb immediately before is tougher, being slightly steeper in parts and 1.5km long (with a steep bit just before in Combe and you pretty much go uphill all the way for the preceding 20km albeit only at an average of 0.5% so not really alpine).
Also I think I would take the total ascent figures given on the route directions with a pinch of salt. If the total of 2925m climbing is true this would push the ride close to being a Tour de France mountain stage which I don't think it is **. My altimeter (which I think is pretty accurate as it tallied with the heights of the TDF cols I climbed last month) gave me a total ascent for the day of 1540m. The last stage, which I rode pretty much exactly as planned was 480m rather than the 950m on the route description.
** By way of comparison, in France I rode tomorrow's (16 July TDF) stage from Montelimar to Gap, pretty much exactly following the route. This is classified as a "mountain stage" by the tour in terms of green jersey points.
Stage 14 timetable
This was 191km long and included a couple of category 2 climbs and a couple of category 3. Highest point was 1300m and started/finished at around 100. My altimeter for that day recorded a total ascent of 2570m.
I have entered for the South Downs Challenge, a 110 mile circuit starting/finishing Highclere Castle http://www.cyclegb.co.uk/southdowns.asp
So today, with the weather being so good, I decided to do a reconnaissance ride to take a look at the course, since I am familiar with the end but not the rest of the course.
The ride was a delight, taking me into Hampshire and along many roads, all new. You pass through a number of villages, full of thatched cottages and looking like picture postcards. And to complete the perfect image of a fine English summer's day I passed 4 games of cricket.
(Some early pictures (not taken by me but from the web site)
The pubs along the route looked very inviting as well. Today I was a bit pressed for time so did not take the opportunity to combine my ride with a bit of beer tasting but will tackle the ride again on coming weekends, in smaller chunks, and be sure to include time in the schedule for a pint (or two).
Just a few of comments on the route>> South Downs Route Map
I don't have a map for the bottom right bit (finishing at Petersfield), so cut a corner, heading south from Gundleton, through Cheriton and picking up the route at Stony Hard farm (great name). But still clocked up 158km in total (including ride from home to/from Highclere). Most of the route is pretty easy to follow, albeit with a number of stops to check map/directions, did miss one right hand turn after Micheldever Station to West Stratton and also only got through Michelmersh more by good luck than judgement.
Overall the trickiest thing about the route is, as you would expect, that there is little that is flat, most of the time you are going up or down, not usually very far in either direction but it does get tiring after a while.
The last couple of climbs are the hardest. Just before the final one (the "scorpion" in the route description) there is, as the directions say, an "acute right turn". This does not do the turn justice given the approach is at 13% down hill. The turn is not cute at all it is downright nasty and just to make it a little bit worse there is a big pothole in the middle of it as well. Hopefully that will be filled before the day.
The scorpions sting is a little less venomous than the route directions say, its maximum gradient is 11% and it only lasts 600m or so. The climb immediately before is tougher, being slightly steeper in parts and 1.5km long (with a steep bit just before in Combe and you pretty much go uphill all the way for the preceding 20km albeit only at an average of 0.5% so not really alpine).
Also I think I would take the total ascent figures given on the route directions with a pinch of salt. If the total of 2925m climbing is true this would push the ride close to being a Tour de France mountain stage which I don't think it is **. My altimeter (which I think is pretty accurate as it tallied with the heights of the TDF cols I climbed last month) gave me a total ascent for the day of 1540m. The last stage, which I rode pretty much exactly as planned was 480m rather than the 950m on the route description.
** By way of comparison, in France I rode tomorrow's (16 July TDF) stage from Montelimar to Gap, pretty much exactly following the route. This is classified as a "mountain stage" by the tour in terms of green jersey points.
Stage 14 timetable
This was 191km long and included a couple of category 2 climbs and a couple of category 3. Highest point was 1300m and started/finished at around 100. My altimeter for that day recorded a total ascent of 2570m.
Wednesday, June 21, 2006
Normal service is resumed
After a brief excursion back to the UK for a funeral, Mr M returned to the Pyrenees. He's cast his eye over the blog, and approved the contents therein as being vaguely accurate. You'll have to wait for his return to these shores to hear all the nitty gritty technical details though.
We're beginning to get used to getting excited text updates from all sorts of weird places. Such as the one on Saturday. It's just as well I switched on my phone after he sent me the one about his successful go at the notorious Mt Ventoux. Even I knew about Tommy Simpson and others who'd come to grief there.
The beloved did have some hairy moments with the weather in this region. He first texted me from a bar where he was waiting for a storm to pass over before attempting the ascent; reckoning that once above the treeline he'd be a sitting target for being turned into a human rissole. Luckily after fifteen minutes or so it passed over. The same's held on other occasions since, and he reckons he's getting more expert on judging the conditions and when and when not to move on.
Hairiness apart, there've been some cheesy moments. Like the other evening when Mr M phoned me from a gay bar (he only discovered this after the event! - he was trying to find somewhere to watch the football from) to tell me one of his flip- flops had fallen out of his panniers, and not fancying cycling back 20 miles up a hill to rescue it, and cycling shoes for evening wear (makes him look like Blackadder One without the codpiece)not being a practical option, he decided to fake an ingrowing toenail. So he spent the time sitting with a flip flop on his left foot and a sock on his right. He's since, thankfully bought another pair. ( J'ai perdu mon 'flip' Avez-vous un 'flop,' s'il vous plait?
And yesterday I picked up a text informing us that the 'flip' wasn't the only thing to drop out of his panniers. Somewhere, at a crossroads deep in the South of France, lies a pair of lightweight Rohan underpants. As Mr M says, the antibacterial lining in his remaining two pairs is going to be well and truly put to the test!
I think we're all agreed that this verges on Too Much Information...
Oh, and the latest. His back wheel broke. And on stopping at a tiny village on the offical tour route, he discovered that the inhabitants seemed to have no notion whatsoever of who was going to be passing through in a few weeks time.
We're beginning to get used to getting excited text updates from all sorts of weird places. Such as the one on Saturday. It's just as well I switched on my phone after he sent me the one about his successful go at the notorious Mt Ventoux. Even I knew about Tommy Simpson and others who'd come to grief there.
The beloved did have some hairy moments with the weather in this region. He first texted me from a bar where he was waiting for a storm to pass over before attempting the ascent; reckoning that once above the treeline he'd be a sitting target for being turned into a human rissole. Luckily after fifteen minutes or so it passed over. The same's held on other occasions since, and he reckons he's getting more expert on judging the conditions and when and when not to move on.
Hairiness apart, there've been some cheesy moments. Like the other evening when Mr M phoned me from a gay bar (he only discovered this after the event! - he was trying to find somewhere to watch the football from) to tell me one of his flip- flops had fallen out of his panniers, and not fancying cycling back 20 miles up a hill to rescue it, and cycling shoes for evening wear (makes him look like Blackadder One without the codpiece)not being a practical option, he decided to fake an ingrowing toenail. So he spent the time sitting with a flip flop on his left foot and a sock on his right. He's since, thankfully bought another pair. ( J'ai perdu mon 'flip' Avez-vous un 'flop,' s'il vous plait?
And yesterday I picked up a text informing us that the 'flip' wasn't the only thing to drop out of his panniers. Somewhere, at a crossroads deep in the South of France, lies a pair of lightweight Rohan underpants. As Mr M says, the antibacterial lining in his remaining two pairs is going to be well and truly put to the test!
I think we're all agreed that this verges on Too Much Information...
Oh, and the latest. His back wheel broke. And on stopping at a tiny village on the offical tour route, he discovered that the inhabitants seemed to have no notion whatsoever of who was going to be passing through in a few weeks time.
Saturday, June 10, 2006
Non aux ours!
Since last I blogged, Mr M has been in the wars. Though thankfully not with the bears mentioned in the title.
Friday started off well. By late morning, he'd reached the top of the Col de Tourmalet 2115m; probably twice the size of Snowdon or was that Ben Nevis? Huge, anyway. And when Mr M texted me, he thought that the worst of the day's cycling was over. Taking 3 hours to climb up, the descent should have been around 45 minutes.
He'd reckoned without all the bumps and lumps and gravel; as previously mentioned the route is being prepared for The Tour. As he rode down Mr M punctured his front tyre, lost direction and fell down with a bang! (He now takes back much of what he's said about helmets; he could hear his one hit the ground!). Anyway, when he'd got up and brushed himself off, he discovered that his back tyre was flat as well...and of course he'd only one inner tube left. What to do? In the end he repaired the back tyre and went on his way, stopping periodically to pump up the front one.
Now came the problem. Mr M is returning to the UK next week for a couple of days for a family funeral, and he badly needed to get to his planned destination that day, in order to pick up the hire car that was going to take him to the airport. And that town was two huge hills away. In the normal way of things he'd have limped on as best he could and done the ride the next day, but knowing that time was against him, that wasn't an option. The town was a four hour walk at least.
So, off he went. The ascent of the first hill was made in blistering 35C heat, then as he started down the descent, the heavens opened. By then Mr M reckoned that his only hope was to somehow find a passing cyclist and beg an inner tube off them. Or find a town, with a shop. However, no town, no cyclists, no shop. A Belgian car did stop and on hearing of his predicament said that they thought that there was a station nearby and that he might be able to travel from there.
Some time later, with no station in sight, what should heave into sight again, but the Belgian car. 'No', said the occupants;'there's no station after all - but can we give you a lift?' Which is exactly what they did, (Mr M says he felt quite guilty about messing up their car - what with an oiley, messy bike and him being covered in gravel and blood) but the elderly occupants were really good about it. I gather that the man had done some cycling in the alps in his younger days. So he got a lift as far as the hotel where they were staying, leaving Mr M one more hill to negotiate bfore he reached his destination.
Strange as he says, that Belgians have provided him with both the lowest and the highest spots of the trip so far.
Still , still some way to go, and he really did need to make good time. But how - with two knackered tyres? (By now he was pushing the bike). Well, coincidence of coincidences - when he was dropped at the Belgians' hotel, what should he see parked out in front, but a familiar minibus. He'd met a group of Brits the day before who'd been on one of these cycle tours when your luggage is transported ahead of you. He'd been talking to the driver about his ride then, and now, here he was again! Had he any spare inner tubes? No problem! So on rode Mr M, collected the car, and called me this evening from his hotel near Luchon.
So, what's all this about bears? Well, as he's been riding through the Pyrenees, Mr M has seen a number of messages scrawled on the rocks and fences Non aux ours Or even Oui aux ours scribbled through and replaced with Non. Strange. Until he remembered hearing reports about the current programme to release bears into the wild! There've been tremendous differences of opinion about this with farmers worrying about the possible danger to their animals.
Mr M reassures us that he has not yet met one of said bears; and even if he did, said bear was far more likely to be afraid of him than otherwise. I do hope that's true!
Friday started off well. By late morning, he'd reached the top of the Col de Tourmalet 2115m; probably twice the size of Snowdon or was that Ben Nevis? Huge, anyway. And when Mr M texted me, he thought that the worst of the day's cycling was over. Taking 3 hours to climb up, the descent should have been around 45 minutes.
He'd reckoned without all the bumps and lumps and gravel; as previously mentioned the route is being prepared for The Tour. As he rode down Mr M punctured his front tyre, lost direction and fell down with a bang! (He now takes back much of what he's said about helmets; he could hear his one hit the ground!). Anyway, when he'd got up and brushed himself off, he discovered that his back tyre was flat as well...and of course he'd only one inner tube left. What to do? In the end he repaired the back tyre and went on his way, stopping periodically to pump up the front one.
Now came the problem. Mr M is returning to the UK next week for a couple of days for a family funeral, and he badly needed to get to his planned destination that day, in order to pick up the hire car that was going to take him to the airport. And that town was two huge hills away. In the normal way of things he'd have limped on as best he could and done the ride the next day, but knowing that time was against him, that wasn't an option. The town was a four hour walk at least.
So, off he went. The ascent of the first hill was made in blistering 35C heat, then as he started down the descent, the heavens opened. By then Mr M reckoned that his only hope was to somehow find a passing cyclist and beg an inner tube off them. Or find a town, with a shop. However, no town, no cyclists, no shop. A Belgian car did stop and on hearing of his predicament said that they thought that there was a station nearby and that he might be able to travel from there.
Some time later, with no station in sight, what should heave into sight again, but the Belgian car. 'No', said the occupants;'there's no station after all - but can we give you a lift?' Which is exactly what they did, (Mr M says he felt quite guilty about messing up their car - what with an oiley, messy bike and him being covered in gravel and blood) but the elderly occupants were really good about it. I gather that the man had done some cycling in the alps in his younger days. So he got a lift as far as the hotel where they were staying, leaving Mr M one more hill to negotiate bfore he reached his destination.
Strange as he says, that Belgians have provided him with both the lowest and the highest spots of the trip so far.
Still , still some way to go, and he really did need to make good time. But how - with two knackered tyres? (By now he was pushing the bike). Well, coincidence of coincidences - when he was dropped at the Belgians' hotel, what should he see parked out in front, but a familiar minibus. He'd met a group of Brits the day before who'd been on one of these cycle tours when your luggage is transported ahead of you. He'd been talking to the driver about his ride then, and now, here he was again! Had he any spare inner tubes? No problem! So on rode Mr M, collected the car, and called me this evening from his hotel near Luchon.
So, what's all this about bears? Well, as he's been riding through the Pyrenees, Mr M has seen a number of messages scrawled on the rocks and fences Non aux ours Or even Oui aux ours scribbled through and replaced with Non. Strange. Until he remembered hearing reports about the current programme to release bears into the wild! There've been tremendous differences of opinion about this with farmers worrying about the possible danger to their animals.
Mr M reassures us that he has not yet met one of said bears; and even if he did, said bear was far more likely to be afraid of him than otherwise. I do hope that's true!
Wednesday, June 07, 2006
Snickers in the Pyrenees
Great excitement here! Mr M called us a couple of hours ago from atop the 'hors category' mountain the Col de Soudet. All of 1.540 m which he did in one go; no stopping. And despite the difficulties of cycling over the gravel which has been scattered everywhere ready for the real Tour riders in July. It's rather like riding over sand, apparently.
Just time for a quick Snickers before starting on the long descent.
Just time for a quick Snickers before starting on the long descent.
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