Time 6:00
Climb 418
Weather Gale force winds
Yet again I got up, looked out of the window and was greeting by grey drizzle. I ate breakfast and headed out of Nouvion, with the wind blowing hard into my face.
After a couple of hours, when the only event of any interest was passing a large Nestle factory in the middle of nowhere, the rain finally relented. I didn't know it at the time but this was the end of the regular drenchings I was going to get.
Given the headwinds I made reasonable time to St Quentin, the finish of the tour's stage 4. The start at Huy yesterday seemed like an age ago.
St Quentin - the smiling town
St Quentin is a town that has personal memories for me, since it is the first French town I can remember staying in. As a child every other year we would visit Switzerland, home to my dads family. Back then these trips were major events, since it was rare for anyone to leave the sanctuary of the British Isle. The road network was nowhere near as developed as today so the journey to/from Switzerland would take a good two days. My first recollection of actually being in France was when we had a stopover at St Quentin, where I remember my dad ordering "escargots" and being amazed when snails turned up at our table and even more amazed when my dad ate them.
Now, returning some 40+ years later, there was not much sign that St Quentin was celebrating the arrival of the tour but looking at the web site later it seems they certainly made up for this when the big day arrived, living up to their claim of being the "town that smiles"
I stopped at a bar/resaurant for a typical French workers lunch. For 12 euros I got a three course meal, with steak as main course, along with some wine and coffee. Very nice, very cheap.
I had another gap d'etape to cover, this one being 100km.My destination was Montdidier and I had planned what seemed to be a pretty straightforward route to get to it, via some friendly looking yellow D roads.
I set off, happy to find that getting through St Quentin was pretty easy given its size. Once I left the shelter of the town, however, I found that the D roads were a bit less friendly than I thought, being wide, straight, rolling and full of traffic. To add to my woes the headwind had got worse and was blowing straight down the road into my face. Making progress was very difficult. For the first time in my cycling life I was actually glad when I was overtaken by an HGV, since in the turbulence of its wake the wind lessened a bit and I could make headway. These respites though were brief and it was proving heavy going. I got a third of my way towards Montdidier and decided a plan B was called for. I headed off the D road across country zig-zagging along quiet country lanes, always heading in the general direction of Montdidier. This route was longer than the original but a lot easier. I passed through any number of tiny villages, wondering how on earth they all kept going but glad they did.
Finally, after covering nearly twice as much distance as originally planned I reached Montdidier. I had booked a hotel in advance but did not know where exactly it was. This proved to be a potential problem as the main street of the town was near vertical. I sped down it desparately looking from side to side, ready to effect an emergency stop. Luckily when I got to the bottom my hotel loomed ahead. Just a luckily the signpost for my direction out of town the next morning was clearly visible and pointing in the opposite direction from the hill I had just come down and therefore would not have to go up again tomorrow.
Montdidier+baby?
I was knackered. I was nearly at the end of my first week of my tour and it had proved hard work with most every day being a battle against wind, rain or, mostly, both. Fortunately my intention had always been to have one day of rest each week and tomorrow, Saturday, was to be the first of these. So I cleaned up and had my second steak of the day in the restaurant. The manager of the hotel stopped by the table for a quick chat, strangely the thing he seemed most keen to impress on me was the fact that my room had electric window shutters, which true enough it had, so I used them and had a good and well earned nights sleep.
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